Friday, December 5, 2008

Healthy-skin breakthroughs - 5

Pentapeptides and growth factors

Why they’re breakthrough Pentapeptides are small chains of amino acids that signal cells to produce collagen. In one study, skin biopsies showed increased collagen production after application of a cream containing the pentapeptide Matrixyl, according to the ingredient’s manufacturer. Studies from Olay, which uses matrixyl in its Regenerist line, show smoother texture and fewer fine lines compared with moisturizer.

Growth factors are collagen-building proteins found naturally in the body (they help heal wounds), says Mark G. Rubin, M.D., a dermatologist in Beverly Hills, California. Proponents of growth factors as anti agers believe that when applied to unwounded skin, they also bolster collagen, making skin firmer and smoother. One manufacturer study showed that Skin-Medica TNS Recovery Complex made the skin of women in their 50snoticeably smoother and more even-toned after three months compared with moisturizer. Dr. Rubin has seen the same effects in his own patients and says that results can be as good as these from a series of laser treatments. “The more damage, the more impressive the response.” He adds.

Get breakthrough result Doctors agree that pentapeptides and growth factors are promising but disagree on how effective they are in creams. And beauty companies don’t claim that their products containing these ingredients penetrate the top layer of skin to stimulate collagen. If you want to try peptides or growth factors, look for Olay Recovery Complex, which at least have been shown to achieve visible results. According to manufacturers, the formulations shouldn’t upset skin, but doctors say the ingredients may be irritating, so do a patch test before using one of the products on your face. A downside to the TNS cream: “it smells like dirty gym socks.”

Women with serious sun damage will achieve the most noticeable improvement from growth factors, providing they use the product consistently for three weeks. In four months, you can cut back to one or two times a week. If you have less damage, you may not see a huge difference from growth factors, but, like dental floss, they may work preventively, he says. If you’re not ready for vitamin A derivatives’ wrinkle assault or side effects but still want good, visible results, try pentapeptides. Choose lotions, which contain lower concentrations than serums, for sensitive skin.

So while a miracle in a jar still doesn’t exist, you can get your healthiest skin yet, no cabinet-crowding necessary.

Ref: self

No comments: